So obviously from the title, my penchant for cheesy prose never fades. What can I say? Rhyme and alliteration make me smile, like a glass of Moscato d'Asti, aka happy bubbles. But I digress for a change.
So after Mother's Day Sunday lunch in NJ, I trained back into the City to join Solli for a “civilized” drink and catch up at Gottino in the West Village. I had randomly walked by one day, ventured in a couple weeks ago and was charmed. It's a slim Italian wine bar on Greenwich Avenue (not street, don’t make that mistake!) with sort of a rustic Tuscan farmhouse feel – complete with big baskets of onions, nuts and other "foodstuffs" downstairs. The servers are super nice (and cute…ahem), and more importantly attentive and helpful in a low-key way - even when I correct them on the pronunciation of Lagrein (Lah-gryne NOT la-grain, please). It’s a red grape variety from Italy's Alto Adige region; they're my clients after all. Anyway, drank Italian rosé at lunch (Larmes du Paradis from the Vallée d’Aoste) that was yummy with our salmon, grilled vegetable skewers—my first real barbecue of the season hooray—and a tomato, goat cheese and caramelized onion tart. But the spring day turned very chilly and so red was called for in the early evening. Ok, I have totally buried my lead here since the entire point of this post is Gottino’s walnut pesto crostini. One of the most delicious things I’ve ever eaten, and you know I’ve had lots of deliciousness! So good! I really had to restrain myself from eating the entire portion while waiting for Solli. There were two small, but very rich crostino I guess is the singular. Crunchy, yet somehow creamy and silky nutty mouthfuls with olive oil and thyme. Should have ordered more. Also tasty were the carpaccio and brandade a la morue (whipped garlicky salt cod with the consistency of mashed potatoes – tastes much better than it sounds) or baccala something in Italian.
And what did we drink? Not Lagrein. Started with a glass of Il Ghizzano, mostly Sangiovese and some Merlot. It was pretty good, but the Aglianico was much better. I didn’t write down the name, drat.
Gottino - you gotta go if only for the walnut pesto…
52 Greenwich Avenue between Charles and Perry
p.s. Coming next, food finds from Prague, including one of the best hamburgers I’ve ever had, seriously. Děkuji, Nico. But you'll have to wait until I'm back from San Francisco.
May 12, 2008
April 20, 2008
Food Memories - Passover Edition
Hi,
This post is a bit of a departure for me, though is there a pattern when one writes so infrequently? Next time I’ll talk about my lunch at Nizza and the chickpea Socco, but for now it’s unleavened thoughts.
Passover dishes, like much of traditional Jewish cooking are not known for being "light" in any sense of the word. Since you can't use flour or leavening agents, baking is especially challenging for this holiday. Macaroons and flourless chocolate cakes are de rigueur. As I'm the de facto baker for family gatherings, a few weeks before the Seders, I made a point of perusing the many food and wine mags in my office – part of my job! - and pulled out a few pages from Bon Appetit and Martha Stewart. Now I'm not really a Martha fan but some of her recipes are quite good. For years I’ve been making my friend Victoria's mom's recipe - a delicious chocolate walnut torte with chopped apples (keeps the cake moist) and a dark chocolate glaze. Many chocoholics in the family! But I wanted to try something different and so this year would regale everyone with “almond lemon torte and fresh strawberry sauce” and “chocolate chocolate chip cookies” (basically a riff on the flourless chocolate cake – you know, stiff egg whites folded in, etc.) To further demonstrate that my repertoire was not limited to sweets – and because the recipe appealed to me and was appropriate for my veggie brother - I also made potato, carrot, and zucchini kugel. The desserts were whipped up on Friday night - after yoga and trips to Whole Foods and my local grocery store. I made the kugel in the morning before heading out to New Jersey on the train. I also schlepped three bottles of wine - Romitorio, my favorite Ruffino wine made from Colorino and Merlot, an Albariño from Rias Baixas (they had been sitting on my desk for weeks in anticipation) and a Moscato d’Asti for dessert. We're not strict so wines don't have to be kosher. No wonder my arms and shoulders are sore today. The kugel was so-so, sour cream and more salt and pepper helped, but it should have been thinner and crisper. I guestimated on the five “8 ounce” potatoes and probably used too many. In cooking, when in doubt, I tend to add more – more chocolate, more cheese, more potatoes... The desserts were yummy and definitely a success.
The traditional Passover dessert is actually a piece of the Afikomen or matzoh that's hidden for the children to find and redeem for a small gift. As my niece and nephew searched, I remembered that my father would often hide it above the folding wooden doors in our den.
My father is really the inspiration for this post. This morning, I decided to cook the leftover potatoes instead of leaving them in the fridge to forget about and throw out weeks from now. I had a couple egg yokes with a bit of white sitting in a mug in the fridge from a botched separating job that I thought I’d have for breakfast. Hash browns would be perfect! I grated the potatoes in the food processor and sautéed the heck out of them with some butter, light olive oil, salt, pepper, and garlic powder. I also tossed in bits of the leftover kugel. Yes, the kugel. It had good flavor from onions and scallions and gave the potatoes a nice kick. They turned out crunchy and totally delicious! While I was eating them sitting on the floor surrounded by toiletries (don’t ask, trying to figure out how NOT to check my luggage this Thursday and I’m a total product queen), I thought that my father would have loved them – the potatoes that is. Many years ago he owned a liquor store and would work Friday nights. Since he'd get home around 10 pm and didn’t want a big meal, I’d make him eggs or an omelet - he liked them with peas and fried potatoes. My eggs this morning were perfect too, very creamy. He would have approved.
Happy Passover.
This post is a bit of a departure for me, though is there a pattern when one writes so infrequently? Next time I’ll talk about my lunch at Nizza and the chickpea Socco, but for now it’s unleavened thoughts.
Passover dishes, like much of traditional Jewish cooking are not known for being "light" in any sense of the word. Since you can't use flour or leavening agents, baking is especially challenging for this holiday. Macaroons and flourless chocolate cakes are de rigueur. As I'm the de facto baker for family gatherings, a few weeks before the Seders, I made a point of perusing the many food and wine mags in my office – part of my job! - and pulled out a few pages from Bon Appetit and Martha Stewart. Now I'm not really a Martha fan but some of her recipes are quite good. For years I’ve been making my friend Victoria's mom's recipe - a delicious chocolate walnut torte with chopped apples (keeps the cake moist) and a dark chocolate glaze. Many chocoholics in the family! But I wanted to try something different and so this year would regale everyone with “almond lemon torte and fresh strawberry sauce” and “chocolate chocolate chip cookies” (basically a riff on the flourless chocolate cake – you know, stiff egg whites folded in, etc.) To further demonstrate that my repertoire was not limited to sweets – and because the recipe appealed to me and was appropriate for my veggie brother - I also made potato, carrot, and zucchini kugel. The desserts were whipped up on Friday night - after yoga and trips to Whole Foods and my local grocery store. I made the kugel in the morning before heading out to New Jersey on the train. I also schlepped three bottles of wine - Romitorio, my favorite Ruffino wine made from Colorino and Merlot, an Albariño from Rias Baixas (they had been sitting on my desk for weeks in anticipation) and a Moscato d’Asti for dessert. We're not strict so wines don't have to be kosher. No wonder my arms and shoulders are sore today. The kugel was so-so, sour cream and more salt and pepper helped, but it should have been thinner and crisper. I guestimated on the five “8 ounce” potatoes and probably used too many. In cooking, when in doubt, I tend to add more – more chocolate, more cheese, more potatoes... The desserts were yummy and definitely a success.
The traditional Passover dessert is actually a piece of the Afikomen or matzoh that's hidden for the children to find and redeem for a small gift. As my niece and nephew searched, I remembered that my father would often hide it above the folding wooden doors in our den.
My father is really the inspiration for this post. This morning, I decided to cook the leftover potatoes instead of leaving them in the fridge to forget about and throw out weeks from now. I had a couple egg yokes with a bit of white sitting in a mug in the fridge from a botched separating job that I thought I’d have for breakfast. Hash browns would be perfect! I grated the potatoes in the food processor and sautéed the heck out of them with some butter, light olive oil, salt, pepper, and garlic powder. I also tossed in bits of the leftover kugel. Yes, the kugel. It had good flavor from onions and scallions and gave the potatoes a nice kick. They turned out crunchy and totally delicious! While I was eating them sitting on the floor surrounded by toiletries (don’t ask, trying to figure out how NOT to check my luggage this Thursday and I’m a total product queen), I thought that my father would have loved them – the potatoes that is. Many years ago he owned a liquor store and would work Friday nights. Since he'd get home around 10 pm and didn’t want a big meal, I’d make him eggs or an omelet - he liked them with peas and fried potatoes. My eggs this morning were perfect too, very creamy. He would have approved.
Happy Passover.
March 19, 2008
I'm Back
Hi Everyone,
I know you didn't really miss my blathering, but a random comment from Brazil (someone in South America reads my blog!) and the fact that tonight I attended a seminar for wine and spirits writing has prompted me - or shall I say guilted me - into hitting the keyboard again. Oh yeah, and I've been taking all these food photos....
So even though today's NYT dining section opened with an article on foodies repenting their gluttony, my return to blogging is dedicated to a glorious gastronomic experience. A few weeks ago, a friend took me to a teeny tiny gem of a restaurant in the East Village called Graffiti. The chef/owner is former Jean Georges pastry chef Jehangir Mehta. The most gracious of hosts, Jehangir welcomed us into a space quite literally the size of my living room. Ganesh and other Indian objets decorate the slim, flatteringly-lighted space. The menu is an exotic assortment of small plates that are truly tantalizing. (Forgive all my pent-up alliteration.) Among the dishes we enjoyed: chili pork dumplings with grapefruit confit; foie gras rasberry crostini with walnut salad; and beet feta salad with a balsamic olive granita. Twenty or so thoughtfully assembled wines are all offered for $8 by the glass or $25 by the bottle. Try the Hi Garnacha. You should probably make a reservation, but go soon!
Graffiti: East 10th Street between First and Second Aves, t: 212-464-7743, www.graffitinyc.com.
Thanks for reading!
Cheers.
I know you didn't really miss my blathering, but a random comment from Brazil (someone in South America reads my blog!) and the fact that tonight I attended a seminar for wine and spirits writing has prompted me - or shall I say guilted me - into hitting the keyboard again. Oh yeah, and I've been taking all these food photos....
So even though today's NYT dining section opened with an article on foodies repenting their gluttony, my return to blogging is dedicated to a glorious gastronomic experience. A few weeks ago, a friend took me to a teeny tiny gem of a restaurant in the East Village called Graffiti. The chef/owner is former Jean Georges pastry chef Jehangir Mehta. The most gracious of hosts, Jehangir welcomed us into a space quite literally the size of my living room. Ganesh and other Indian objets decorate the slim, flatteringly-lighted space. The menu is an exotic assortment of small plates that are truly tantalizing. (Forgive all my pent-up alliteration.) Among the dishes we enjoyed: chili pork dumplings with grapefruit confit; foie gras rasberry crostini with walnut salad; and beet feta salad with a balsamic olive granita. Twenty or so thoughtfully assembled wines are all offered for $8 by the glass or $25 by the bottle. Try the Hi Garnacha. You should probably make a reservation, but go soon!
Graffiti: East 10th Street between First and Second Aves, t: 212-464-7743, www.graffitinyc.com.
Thanks for reading!
Cheers.
May 21, 2007
Cinco de Mayo in the Greek Isles...
Greek cuisine is having a revival in New York City, according to a recent New York magazine article. However, the current surge in Aegean restaurants seems to be centered around so-called “modern” or “Greek-inspired” restaurants that are not kind to the wallet. Ethos, by contrast, is the real deal, without fusion flash, just fresh, delicious and affordable delights.
A recent Saturday night with a favorite neighborhood Mexican a total mob scene (well it happened to be Cinco de Mayo!), and after fruitless waiting on line to see "The Gates" documentary at the Tribeca Film Festival (at a Kips Bay movie theater, not quite as cool, but still), hunger pains had taken over. Jill suggested Ethos at 3rd Ave and 33rd. There was a line, but the smiling host quickly found us a table - Jill was a regular! Preferential treatment, I dig it, but still felt a tad guilty as we were whisked ahead of the couple in front of us; the twinge quickly passed. Various objets adorn the brick walls and colorful lamps hang from the ceiling, but somehow it avoids being kitschy; and the lighting is flattering.
We started with Taramosalata, fresh and creamy with just the right amount of lemon and garlic, a great substitute for the guacamole deprived. The menu offers all the classic mezze- tsatziki, skordalia, etc. A basket of warm pita and olive-studded bread arrived promptly after our server took the order (and he was very cute too, always a plus, G - just your type). We shared everything, as portions are huge. Next came a classic Greek salad. I’d have preferred a few more chunks of feta, but it certainly wasn’t stingy and the dressing was perfectly seasoned. Charcoal-grilled baby octopus followed (a big baby!), with delicious smoky flavor, hints of oregano, and just enough snap. Still desirous of comfort food, aka something gooey, we embraced tradition and moved on to Moussaka "baked in a clay pot". Layers of delight... Other standouts include whole grilled fish, priced by the pound and filleted table side. The souvlaki looked yummy too, and juicy.
Ethos has a full bar and decent selection of Greek and other wines. A glass of crisp Robola paired well with all the dishes. At the end of the meal, a flaky cheese “Danish” with a drizzle of honey arrived at the table; it was on the house and came with a smile. All for $36! Yum. A Greek Cinco de Mayo, now that's my type of fusion.
Will try to get in one more post before my whirlwind trip, but with my lame blogging track record, I won't promise anything.
A recent Saturday night with a favorite neighborhood Mexican a total mob scene (well it happened to be Cinco de Mayo!), and after fruitless waiting on line to see "The Gates" documentary at the Tribeca Film Festival (at a Kips Bay movie theater, not quite as cool, but still), hunger pains had taken over. Jill suggested Ethos at 3rd Ave and 33rd. There was a line, but the smiling host quickly found us a table - Jill was a regular! Preferential treatment, I dig it, but still felt a tad guilty as we were whisked ahead of the couple in front of us; the twinge quickly passed. Various objets adorn the brick walls and colorful lamps hang from the ceiling, but somehow it avoids being kitschy; and the lighting is flattering.
We started with Taramosalata, fresh and creamy with just the right amount of lemon and garlic, a great substitute for the guacamole deprived. The menu offers all the classic mezze- tsatziki, skordalia, etc. A basket of warm pita and olive-studded bread arrived promptly after our server took the order (and he was very cute too, always a plus, G - just your type). We shared everything, as portions are huge. Next came a classic Greek salad. I’d have preferred a few more chunks of feta, but it certainly wasn’t stingy and the dressing was perfectly seasoned. Charcoal-grilled baby octopus followed (a big baby!), with delicious smoky flavor, hints of oregano, and just enough snap. Still desirous of comfort food, aka something gooey, we embraced tradition and moved on to Moussaka "baked in a clay pot". Layers of delight... Other standouts include whole grilled fish, priced by the pound and filleted table side. The souvlaki looked yummy too, and juicy.
Ethos has a full bar and decent selection of Greek and other wines. A glass of crisp Robola paired well with all the dishes. At the end of the meal, a flaky cheese “Danish” with a drizzle of honey arrived at the table; it was on the house and came with a smile. All for $36! Yum. A Greek Cinco de Mayo, now that's my type of fusion.
Will try to get in one more post before my whirlwind trip, but with my lame blogging track record, I won't promise anything.
February 28, 2007
March Madness
How is it already March? Well, I still have a few hours to go before the new month hits, but my resolutions to write more have fallen ridiculously short. However, I did get to the gym tonight.... In any case, I wanted to send a shout out to G. who's flown far away to warmer climes to start an exciting new job and ride a camel to work. Unfortunately, it's in a country where you need a permit to buy alcohol and public displays of drunkenness are punishable by hanging in the public square. Sacre bleu (or I should say salaam alechem). So I'm raising my virtual glass to a friend with whom I've shared countless glasses of wine throughout the years. Good luck in finding tasty vino over there. Maybe they import Manischewitz - not!
In other news, two recent super wine finds that are pretty inexpensive, both from Southern France because we can all use a bit of Provençal sun in the middle of winter! Jean-Luc Colombo's Les Pins Couchés Côte Bleue Red and Les 40ème Rugissants (Roaring 40's). The first is a Syrah/Mourvèdre blend and the second is all Syrah. La Côte Bleue refers to the area near Marseilles known as the "blue coast" and the wine is full of red fruits, thyme, black olive and well, yumminess (not to be confused with a certain annoying celeb chef’s “yum-o” please). The "40" wine starts off all cloves and keeps changing in the glass like a magic potion. We drank it while watching the Oscars along with a spicy chili that J. whipped up and it was a fab pairing. Much more interesting than the endless awards that gave "saving the best for last" new meaning.
Cheers y’all and Happy March!
In other news, two recent super wine finds that are pretty inexpensive, both from Southern France because we can all use a bit of Provençal sun in the middle of winter! Jean-Luc Colombo's Les Pins Couchés Côte Bleue Red and Les 40ème Rugissants (Roaring 40's). The first is a Syrah/Mourvèdre blend and the second is all Syrah. La Côte Bleue refers to the area near Marseilles known as the "blue coast" and the wine is full of red fruits, thyme, black olive and well, yumminess (not to be confused with a certain annoying celeb chef’s “yum-o” please). The "40" wine starts off all cloves and keeps changing in the glass like a magic potion. We drank it while watching the Oscars along with a spicy chili that J. whipped up and it was a fab pairing. Much more interesting than the endless awards that gave "saving the best for last" new meaning.
Cheers y’all and Happy March!
January 09, 2007
Blogging Resolutions
Happy New Year, friends!
Hope everyone rang in 2007 as deliciously as possible. Mine was very bubbly indeed with Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco, Nicolas Feuillatte Brut, and Pierre Peters Blanc de Blanc, to drop a few names. They’re all mighty tasty sparklers and good values, not like that ubiquitous Champagne in orange packaging that shall be nameless…ahem. ‘Blanc de blanc' means 100% Chardonnay grapes as opposed to the usual mix of Chard, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (well, not everyone knows that) and is usually lighter and crisper than the blends. The hit of the night, however, was the pomegranate martinis (thanks Pia). I made Pomegranate Bellinis (Prosecco and Pom juice) for a party a few years ago, but never tried these martinis. They're so good, had to include the recipe below. New Year’s Day was celebrated en famille with mimosas and hoppin' john with black-eyed peas for good luck.
Pomegranate Martini for 6
12 ounces 100% pomegranate juice
6 ounces citrus vodka
3 Cointreau liqueur
Optional: Splash of sparkling water for you sissies. Shake ingredients in a shaker and put in chilled martini glasses (or serve on the rocks). Put pomegranate fruit into glass as garnish.
p.s. My blogging rhythm has been pitiful, but I'm aiming to be more prolific in the new year. Tune in next time for an East Village food crawl featuring Caracas Arepa Bar, Xunta, and Momofuku Sassaim Bar. Yummy!
Hope everyone rang in 2007 as deliciously as possible. Mine was very bubbly indeed with Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco, Nicolas Feuillatte Brut, and Pierre Peters Blanc de Blanc, to drop a few names. They’re all mighty tasty sparklers and good values, not like that ubiquitous Champagne in orange packaging that shall be nameless…ahem. ‘Blanc de blanc' means 100% Chardonnay grapes as opposed to the usual mix of Chard, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier (well, not everyone knows that) and is usually lighter and crisper than the blends. The hit of the night, however, was the pomegranate martinis (thanks Pia). I made Pomegranate Bellinis (Prosecco and Pom juice) for a party a few years ago, but never tried these martinis. They're so good, had to include the recipe below. New Year’s Day was celebrated en famille with mimosas and hoppin' john with black-eyed peas for good luck.
Pomegranate Martini for 6
12 ounces 100% pomegranate juice
6 ounces citrus vodka
3 Cointreau liqueur
Optional: Splash of sparkling water for you sissies. Shake ingredients in a shaker and put in chilled martini glasses (or serve on the rocks). Put pomegranate fruit into glass as garnish.
p.s. My blogging rhythm has been pitiful, but I'm aiming to be more prolific in the new year. Tune in next time for an East Village food crawl featuring Caracas Arepa Bar, Xunta, and Momofuku Sassaim Bar. Yummy!
November 05, 2006
Marvelous Mary's
No, I’m not referring to the Amagansett epicurean outpost, Mary’s Marvelous! (www.marysmarvelous.com). But since I brought it up, let me pause for a moment in honor of vegetable frittatas, mini pains au chocolat, and apricot scones…some my favorite summer breakfasts.
The Mary’s in question here is Mary’s Fish Camp in the West Village. The occasion was lunch with Caroline, one of my college roommates. Mary’s was bustling but not insane on Saturday at 1 pm. We settled into a window nook for our half-hour wait. At 1:30, we were seated at the counter pouring over the menu.
Lunch began with P.E. Island mussels. They were small, plump, and delicious in a bread-sopping-worthy herb and fennel broth. Beet and fennel salad with juicy orange sections and almonds followed. I didn’t eat beets until my late 20’s; I think the epiphany happened in Paris.
But the lobster potpie….oh my god! Big, tender chunks of lobster, carrots and some green vegetable (not celery, but what?) in a luscious thyme infused cream sauce, topped with puff pastry. We also indulged in lobster “knuckles" —$12 for a plate big enough to satisfy any crustacean craving. And a side of super skinny, crispy French fries didn’t need my usual multi-grinds of pepper. Heaven. Oh, a glass of Menetou Salon (Sancerre's cousin) was citrusy and crisp. Yum!
The service was brisk, but efficient and friendly. And the only reason I managed to refrain from dessert was a dinner party planned for that evening.
I can’t make any comparisons to Mary’s supposed rival, Pearl Oyster Bar, I’ve never been. If you have, let me know.
Check it out: www.marysfishcamp.com.
p.s. I know I promised to write about Nomad, but just had to fill you in on Mary’s tout de suite.
The Mary’s in question here is Mary’s Fish Camp in the West Village. The occasion was lunch with Caroline, one of my college roommates. Mary’s was bustling but not insane on Saturday at 1 pm. We settled into a window nook for our half-hour wait. At 1:30, we were seated at the counter pouring over the menu.
Lunch began with P.E. Island mussels. They were small, plump, and delicious in a bread-sopping-worthy herb and fennel broth. Beet and fennel salad with juicy orange sections and almonds followed. I didn’t eat beets until my late 20’s; I think the epiphany happened in Paris.
But the lobster potpie….oh my god! Big, tender chunks of lobster, carrots and some green vegetable (not celery, but what?) in a luscious thyme infused cream sauce, topped with puff pastry. We also indulged in lobster “knuckles" —$12 for a plate big enough to satisfy any crustacean craving. And a side of super skinny, crispy French fries didn’t need my usual multi-grinds of pepper. Heaven. Oh, a glass of Menetou Salon (Sancerre's cousin) was citrusy and crisp. Yum!
The service was brisk, but efficient and friendly. And the only reason I managed to refrain from dessert was a dinner party planned for that evening.
I can’t make any comparisons to Mary’s supposed rival, Pearl Oyster Bar, I’ve never been. If you have, let me know.
Check it out: www.marysfishcamp.com.
p.s. I know I promised to write about Nomad, but just had to fill you in on Mary’s tout de suite.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
