Marvelous Mary's

No, I’m not referring to the Amagansett epicurean outpost, Mary’s Marvelous! (www.marysmarvelous.com). But since I brought it up, let me pause for a moment in honor of vegetable frittatas, mini pains au chocolat, and apricot scones…some my favorite summer breakfasts.

The Mary’s in question here is Mary’s Fish Camp in the West Village. The occasion was lunch with Caroline, one of my college roommates. Mary’s was bustling but not insane on Saturday at 1 pm. We settled into a window nook for our half-hour wait. At 1:30, we were seated at the counter pouring over the menu.

Lunch began with P.E. Island mussels. They were small, plump, and delicious in a bread-sopping-worthy herb and fennel broth. Beet and fennel salad with juicy orange sections and almonds followed. I didn’t eat beets until my late 20’s; I think the epiphany happened in Paris.

But the lobster potpie….oh my god! Big, tender chunks of lobster, carrots and some green vegetable (not celery, but what?) in a luscious thyme infused cream sauce, topped with puff pastry. We also indulged in lobster “knuckles" —$12 for a plate big enough to satisfy any crustacean craving. And a side of super skinny, crispy French fries didn’t need my usual multi-grinds of pepper. Heaven. Oh, a glass of Menetou Salon (Sancerre's cousin) was citrusy and crisp. Yum!

The service was brisk, but efficient and friendly. And the only reason I managed to refrain from dessert was a dinner party planned for that evening.

I can’t make any comparisons to Mary’s supposed rival, Pearl Oyster Bar, I’ve never been. If you have, let me know.

Check it out: www.marysfishcamp.com.

p.s. I know I promised to write about Nomad, but just had to fill you in on Mary’s tout de suite.